Description

Level of Difficulty: Intermediate Do-It-Yourselfer – Moderate
Completion Time: 3 Hours
Most bathroom renovations include changing out the old toilet for a new one. This is mainly because most homeowners want to keep the bathroom fixtures uniform in colour and style. For example, if the new bath tub chosen is a rose coloured, antique-style the sink and the toilet should follow in this design to maintain the continuity.
In most households replacing a two-piece toilet can be accomplished by an amateur in a few hours using a few rudimentary tools. Many varieties of toilets are available in kits with all the materials needed to complete the operation in one box.

TOOLS

  • Carpenter's level
  • Ratchet wrench
  • Wash basin wrench
  • Adjustable wrench

MATERIALS

  • Bolts(for the floor flange)
  • Plumbers sealant
  • Rubber rings
  • Screws
  • Wax seal with horn
  • Rags
  • Cardboard

BEFORE ASSEMBLY

INSTALLATION

The following instructions cover the installation of a two piece toilet. Familiarize yourself with every step of the process before undertaking the installation of a toilet. And do not hesitate to call your renovation centre if you have questions.
Check to see if low-flush toilets are required in your area.
Wear kitchen gloves when sponging out the old toilet tank.
The tank and bowl are heavy so wear a back support and lift with the legs. If possible, get a helping hand.

WHEN A PLUMBER IS NEEDED

If there is not a shut-off valve below the toilet, a competent plumber should be brought in to install one.
Call a professional if the toilet has been slowly leaking over a long period of time as the flooring may be rotted.

CHOOSING THE NEW TOILET

Before heading to the store, measure the distance from the wall (not the baseboards) to the bolts holding the bowl to the floor. This is referred to as the “footprint”. The standard footprint is 12". However, it can vary depending on the age and style of the toilet. Make sure your new toilet will fit.
Remove all the packaging and inspect the toilet carefully for cracks or blemishes in the glazing that may have occurred during shipping.

STEPS
  • STEP 1: DISCONNECT THE WATER SUPPLY
  • STEP 2: REMOVE THE OLD TANK
  • STEP 3: REMOVE THE OLD BOWL
  • STEP 4: INSTALL THE NEW TOILET BOWL
  • STEP 5: INSTALL THE TANK
  • STEP 6: INSTALL THE WATER SUPPLY LINE

1.1 Turn off water supply to the toilet at the shut-off valve located behind the toilet. If there is no valve, close the main water supply to the house.

1.2 Flush the toilet.

1.3 Unscrew the handle from the shutoff valve and, with a pair of adjustable wrenches, disconnect the water supply line from the valve and from the toilet tank.

1.4 Sponge out the remaining water from the tank. Plunge and bail as much water as possible from the bowl.

2.1 Unscrew the nuts on the bolts holding the tank to the toilet. Hold the tank bolts inside the tank with a screwdriver while you unscrew the nuts. 2.2 Lift the tank from the bowl and remove it from the work area.

3.1 Pry off the caps from the bolts on either side of the toilet base using a screwdriver.

3.2 Remove the nuts on the floor bolts with an adjustable wrench.

3.3 Rock the bowl back and forth to break the seal between the toilet and the flange.

3.4 With the aid of a helper, lift the bowl straight up off the bolts and remove from the work area. The bottom of the toilet will have some wax stuck to it so set it down on cardboard or newspaper.

3.5 Plug the drain hole with a rag to prevent sewer odors from escaping and tools from being dropped into the drain. If you’re not installing the new toilet right away cover the drain with cardboard and place a concrete block over the drain to eliminate any risk of a rodent invading from the sewer.

3.6 Remove the flange bolts and scrape the remaining wax from the flange with a putty knife.

3.7 Wipe the flange clean with a rag.

4.1 Lay the toilet bowl upside down on a pile of newspapers or a blanket to avoid scratching it.

4.2 Place the wax seal (with horn) around the drain hole and apply plumbers putty around the outside perimeter of the bowl.

4.3 Place the bowl back right side up and position it over the drain pipe. Be careful to line up the holes at the base of the bowl with the bolts on the floor flange.

4.4 Apply pressure on the bowl to ensure a good adherence of the wax seal and plumbing sealant.

4.5 Attach the bowl to the floor using the bolts and cover the nuts with caps. Do not over tighten as porcelain is brittle and cracks easily.

4.6 Check that the bowl is level if not use plastic shims to level the water closet.

5.1 Install the flush handle, the float ball and the tank ball to the inside of the tank if it hasn’t already been done.

5.2 Turn the tank upside down and place the connection ring on the water outlet.

5.3 Turn the tank right side up and line up the bolt holes with those on the bowl.

5.4 Slide the two bolts through the holes and fix the rubber washers over the protruding ends of the bolts

5.5 Tighten with two nuts symmetrically with a ratchet wrench while holding the bolt heads inside firm with a screwdriver. One side should be tightened a few turns with equal turns on the other. Do this until the tank is settled in place.

6.1 Attach the water supply line first to the shutoff valve. Then connect the other end to the ball-cock supply valve connector located under the tank.

6.2 Tighten the connecting nuts while firmly holding the ball-cock supply valve.

6.3 Complete and test the installation.

6.4 Run a damp cloth or your finger around the base of the bowl to remove any excess plumber’s putty.