A pedestal lavatory sink needs to be solidly anchored to the wall by fastening it to a horizontal support piece, called blocking.

1.1. Decide where to locate your pedestal sink.

1.2. Use a stud finder to find the blocking between the two wall studs at that location.

1.3. If there is no blocking, cut a hole in the drywall and fasten a piece of 2″ x 4″ horizontally between the two studs. Replace the piece of drywall, finish the joints and paint the wall.

2.1. Position the pedestal in the desired location.

2.2. Place the washbasin on top of it and ask a helper to hold it steady.

2.3. Check that the sink is level.

2.4. Trace the outline of the pedestal on the floor and the outline of the top of the washbasin on the wall. 2.5. Mark, on the floor, the locations of the anchoring holes in the pedestal base and, on the wall, the positions of the mounting holes at the back of the sink (accessible from below). 2.6. Remove both parts of the sink and put them aside.

5.1. Run a rope of plumber’s putty around the sink drain hole and insert the drain flange into the hole.

5.2. Fit the seals and nut onto the drain tailpiece.

5.3. Insert the tailpiece into the opening and screw it into the flange.

6.1. Line up the pedestal base with the marks made previously on the floor.

6.2. Fasten the pedestal to the floor with wood screws. Do not over-tighten, as this could cause the porcelain to crack. If there are no anchoring holes to secure the pedestal to the floor, run silicone sealant around the base.

6.3. Fasten the mounting plate to the wall blocking.

6.4. Mount the sink to the wall plate and lower it onto the pedestal.

6.5. Once in place, check that the sink is at the correct height and lined up properly with the pedestal. 6.6. Tighten the mounting bolts behind the sink.

6.7. Apply silicone caulk between the sink and the wall, smoothing it with a wet finger or damp cloth.

7.1. Connect the braided flexible hoses to the faucet tailpieces.

7.2. Connect the other end of the hoses to the shut-off valves.

7.3. Bend the hoses if they are too long.

7.4. Hand-tighten, then tighten a further quarter- or half-turn with a wrench.

7.5. Hold the shut-off valve steady with a different wrench, to prevent damage to the pipes.

7.6. Remove the aerator from under the faucet spout.

8.1. Slip a rubber washer over the end of the piece of drain pipe that fits directly under the sink.

8.2. Screw a slip nut onto the strainer thread to connect the two parts.

8.3. Attach the P-trap arm to the wall waste pipe using a slip nut and washer.

8.4. Attach the bottom section of the P-trap to the other parts with slip nuts and washers. Tighten all the connections with a pipe wrench.

The plug body has a hole in it, through which to pass the pivot rod that moves the plug up and down. This hole must therefore be properly aligned with the rod before tightening the nut!

9.1 Insert the stopper in the plug hole, lining up the hole in its plastic stem with the hole on the side of the plug body.

9.2 Insert the horizontal pivot rod into this hole. Turn the stopper if necessary until the rod is properly inserted.

9.3 Hand-tighten the nut that holds the rod in place.

9.4 Pull the stopper to the “open” position; the horizontal rod should now be pointing downward.

9.5 Insert the vertical lift rod into the hole behind the faucet.

9.6 Assemble this lift rod onto the perforated extension rod (clevis).

9.7 On the clevis, find the hole nearest the end of the horizontal pivot rod (the rod pointing downward).

9.8 Pass the pivot rod through this hole and block it with the spring clip.

9.9 Pull on the lever to close the stopper and check the adjustment.