5.1. Cut the ledger board (2″× 10″ beam) to the required length. (In some cases an end joist beam is laminated to the ledger board for support. For small decks, this may not be needed.)
5.2. Drill holes in the ledger board to receive the lag bolts (These are usually 3/8″. The ends of the board should have a top and bottom hole and then the holes are alternated from top to bottom along the whole length.
5.3. Place the ledger board against the wooden clapboard exactly where it’s to be installed.
5.4. Trace the perimeter of the ledger board.
5.5. Adjust the blade of the circular saw to ½” or less depending on the thickness of the clapboard of the home. For concrete-based clapboard use a blade recommended by the siding manufacturer.
5.6. Cut a strip through the clapboard along the traced lines. This will give you access to the house end joist beam to which you will attach the deck ledger board.
5.7. Cut a drip cap the length of the ledger board.
5.8. Caulk the drip cap in place making sure the top tab is slid under the siding.
5.9. Install the deck’s ledger board against the house making sure it is level.
5.10. Mark the part of the house where the joist in required by inserting a marker through the terrace end joist (part of the house’s sill) bolt holes where required.
5.11. Remove the ledger board.
5.12. Predrill holes in the exposed ribbon joist to accept the lag bolts.
5.13. Bolt the ledger board in place against the home using galvanized washers.
5.14. Make sure the drip cap is on top of the ledger board. Caulk top of ledger board to avoid water infiltration between the drip cap and ledger board. Use only galvanized steel and not aluminum as aluminum will react with the chemicals in the pressure-treated lumber and corrode.